Young Lads - Clothes Count!

This past week we took at trip down to New Haven to view the Zoffany exhibit at the Yale Museum of British Art.  It closes on February 12th, so if you have a chance to make it down there, don't miss it!  And if you do miss it, consider buying the book.

While soaking in all the wonderful clothing details that Johan Zoffany so kindly shared with us, I noticed a few things about how young lads are portrayed.

Most of them are sporting the 18th century version of a mullet -- short bangs and long hair, as seen in the painting below.

Zoffany Lavie Children c 1770

And that little boys are given special dispensation in regards to fashion rules, while at play.

I also noticed that whenever people were standing in front of paintings of children they always looked at them and sighed. "awwwhh", often punctuated with "how cute".  We love our kids and we love pictures of kids.  Why do you think kids are such camera magnets at reenactments?  Which brings me to the point of today's post -- we need to put the same amount of effort into our kid's kits as we do in ours!  Don't misunderstand, that doesn't mean we have to spend the same amount of time or money, but we do need to do it right.

During the weekend of Feb 17/18, master tailor Henry Cooke will be conducting a workshop on "Constructing a Young Lad's Kit".  He'll be teaching how to make an accurate kit, that is relatively easy to construct and has room for growth.  Even if you don't have a young lad of your own, it's the perfect opportunity to create a few outfits to have on hand for your regiments stores. So don't miss this opportunity to make that photo op count, with really great kit for the younger set.  To find out more about this workshop visit www.thehiveonline.org

Sunday's Hive Schedule -- Changes!

This Sunday kicks off the 2012 Hive season!  Our home this year will be at the Major John Buttrick House, which is the yellow center entrance colonial on Liberty St in Concord, across from the North Bridge Visitor Center, where there is plenty of parking.


We are thrilled to be kicking off things with, count 'em, two guest scholars.  Becky Fifield, who will be sharing her exhaustive research on runaways and Carol Kocian, who is the "go-to" person for 18th century stockings. And because we'd like everyone to be able to hear both lectures, we've tweaked the schedule a bit, so here it is......  See you on Sunday.....

12-1pm - Coffee/Snacks at Major John Buttrick House

1pm-1:45 "Had on When She Ran Away"
Expanding the usefulness of garment data in runaway advertisements. Recently published in Textile History, the author will be sharing her research and the methodology used in collecting and analyzing runaway data, with a special focus on fabrics, their frequency and use in particular garments.

2pm-2:45 Stockings Close-up: Yours and Mine
We'll begin with a slide lecture on 18th century stockings. Style changes throughout the century will be shown, as well as details of the frame-knitting process. Afterwards will be a chance to take a look at the original stockings in Carol Kocian's collection. Bring your own stockings, your knitting, or knit fabric you are thinking of using for stockings, to compare and discuss

3pm-3:45 Encore -- Stockings Close-up - For those who want to attend one our our clinics at 2

****2pm-3pm CLINICS*****

Breeches Fitting Clinic
Period breeches fit snugly around the leg and feel just below the knee. Bring in your off-the-rack breeches and learn how to make them have a more period correct (and flattering) appearance. No sewing experience necessary.
 
Kit Tune-up/Getting Started
New to reenacting or does you kit need a tune-up? Join our team for an overview of Battle Road clothing standards. Separate clinics for men and women/children.

Making an Apron*
An easy beginner project and a great refresher for experienced sewers. An apron is an essential part of a woman’s wardrobe; let’s make a new one!

Making a Market Wallet*
Sewing 101 for men. Learn basic hand sewing stitches as you make a practical and useful item for your kit.

Using Props as Interpretive Tools for Living History
Sometimes when talking to the public it’s hard to know where to start. We’ll look at the things you know about, like your clothing, your musket, and other props as a way of breaking the ice and feeling confident in your interpreting.

* Indicates pre-registration necessary and materials fees.

January Workshops - Don't Miss!!!

There are still a few openings for some of the January Workshops -- Don't miss your chance to attend some great classes!

  

Making a Man's Shirt

Saturday January 14, 2012 9:30am–4pm & Saturday February 11, 2012 9:30am–4pm

A great beginner project in which to learn and practice your hand sewing but also a great way for more advanced sewers to create a thing of beauty! These two Saturday sessions will teach you the basics of constructing and sewing a man's shirt. The classroom time will focus on learning the trickier details while you work on the easier things at home between classes. The second session will help you with the finishing touches like cuffs and sleeve buttons.

Fee: $100 (fee does not include materials)
Instructors: Matthew & Vicky Brenckle
To register contact: v_rebal@yahoo.com

Waistcoat as a Foundation Garment

Saturday, January 14, 2012 9:30am–4pm & Saturday February 11, 2012 9:30am–4pm Ever notice how a well-fit waistcoat beautifully complements an 18th century suit? Often overlooked because a coat covers it, the waistcoat is actually a man's foundation garment. This two-day workshop will look at original waistcoats and explore the methods tailors used to create a good fit. By the end of day one, you will have drafted a pattern to create a superbly fit waistcoat, cut out your fabric and will leave with a homework assignment. The second session will be spent perfecting construction techniques and focusing on the finer elements.

Fee: $100 (materials not included)
Instructor: Henry Cooke
To register contact: hcooke4@verizon.net

So you want to knit your own stockings

Saturday January 14, 2011 9:30am–noon

This is not a session to teach knitting. If you want to knit stockings, plan to have someone to knit for you, or you are evaluating hand-knit stockings to purchase, you will be prepared after this session. Using detailed images from museum collections and originals from Carol's collection, we will discuss the elements of hand-knit 18th century stockings. Construction details, gauge, and density will be discussed, as well as the pitfalls of modern knitters assuming any hand knit is historically okay.

Fee: $15
Maximum Attendees: 15
Instructor: Carol Kocian
To register contact: carolkocian@yahoo.com

What time is it? Clocked stocking time!

Saturday, January 14, 2011 1pm-4pm

Most costume enthusiasts have heard of clocked stockings, but did you know the patterns and techniques changed through the decades? Using detailed images from museum collections and originals from Carol's collection, we'll look at clocking styles from early to late 18th century and a bit into the 19th. Besides learning about these styles of embellishment, methods of replicating a them or "faking it" will be discussed. We will make a sampler of a few of these techniques.

Fee: $20
Maximum Attendees: 12
Instructor: Carol Kocian
To register contact: carolkocian@yahoo.com

January Hive: New Saturday Workshops Added -- HOSIERY!

Happy New Year!
I know that many of you have made New Year's Resolutions to make improvements to your 18th century impressions.  Some will try hand sewing a complete garment for the first time, others will try their hand at making a new accessory, but whatever we choose, there is one area that we all need work in: HOSIERY!

Stockings? Really?  Yeah! For the men especially-- think about it -- one third of what you see is their hosiery!  And guess what -- we don't have accurate period stockings -- or even *really* good ones for that matter.  However, that doesn't stop us from learning about this orphan item in our wardrobe.

To the rescue -- Carol Kocian, independent scholar and stocking maven is traveling north to share with us her vast knowledge period hosiery!  She'll be joining us for our first Sunday Hive to give us a introduction to period stockings, but that's only going to scratch the surface of this neglected subject so she has kindly agreed to do two workshops on Saturday January 14th, for those of you who want to learn about stockings in greater depth and learn how to make stockings that create a better period appearance.

So you want to knit your own stockings

Saturday January 14, 2011 9:30am–noon

This is not a session to teach knitting. If you want to knit stockings, plan to have someone to knit for you, or you are evaluating hand-knit stockings to purchase, you will be prepared after this session. Using detailed images from museum collections and originals from Carol's collection, we will discuss the elements of hand-knit 18th century stockings. Construction details, gauge, and density will be discussed, as well as the pitfalls of modern knitters assuming any hand knit is historically okay.

Fee: $15

Maximum Attendees: 15

Instructor: Carol Kocian

To register contact: carolkocian@yahoo.com

What time is it? Clocked stocking time!

Saturday January 14, 2011 1pm–4pm

Most costume enthusiasts have heard of clocked stockings, but did you know the patterns and techniques changed through the decades? Using detailed images from museum collections and originals from Carol's collection, we'll look at clocking styles from early to late 18th century and a bit into the 19th. Besides learning about these styles of embellishment, methods of replicating a them or "faking it" will be discussed. We will make a sampler of a few of these techniques.

Fee: $20

Maximum Attendees: 12

Instructor: Carol Kocian

To register contact: carolkocian@yahoo.com

So ladies and gentlemen don't hesitate, sign up today and learn more about stockings from our guest scholar and start out 2012 by learning some new!

Instructor Perspective: Men's Shirts

This is the first of a series of posts by our Hive Instructors so they can share with you their perspectives on reproducing 18th century clothing.  

Why You Should Learn to Make A Man’s Shirt

OR

How About Them Details??

By Victoria Brenckle

            Since you are reading this post on The Hive’s website I am going to assume that you have already seen the fabulous workshop selection for the 2012 season. Next, I am going to go out on a limb and assume that most of you were swept away in daydreams of tuning up your gun or making leather breeches. Perhaps your mind wandered towards overalls or waistcoats because those get “seen” and are important to get to first.

            Why would I accuse you of such things? I know because I was there. I came to the Rev War via the 1630’s which was, by the way, a century and a half BEFORE the Revolution. (I wish someone told me that when I started in Revolutionary War reenacting.) I wore my old clothes to my first 2 events. The first thing I made was a jacket; outerwear.

            Now, as a seasoned so called "veteran reenactor", I will share the most important rule in building an historic impression. Start from the inside and work out!   I can now assume the two questions that come to mind: What do I do in the meantime? and Why should I do that?

            The first question is the easiest; either show up and soak it all in as a spectator to start with or ask your group where the slop chest is or who will let you borrow an outfit. As long as you are actively working to get yourself outfitted, most reenactors do not mind loaning clothes a few times.

            On to the harder question. Why would I make you put off the chance to learn all that other cool stuff first? Here are my reasons:

·       By studying inventories and reading copious primary sources, Matt and I see the same thing over and over again. Men had numerous shirts. You see, shirts got dirty since they were worn closest to the skin (which was not cleaned as frequently as yours is…assumptions again). Do you change your underwear everyday but wear your pants more than once? Eighteenth Century men followed the same pattern. Shirts were the most worn, laundered and replaced item in a man’s wardrobe. If you have a shirt now, wouldn’t you like to have another? Wouldn’t it be great to be able to repair it? How about to make another when that fabulous shirt you make with us gets tired? We’re teaching you how to fish here people!

·       By fish I mean…sew! When you make a shirt by hand you need to learn and use (over and over and over again) those basic stitches that are used to make other 18^th century reproductions. Sewing a shirt by hand will force you to make your stitches smaller, neater and quicker than you are now. Once you construct a shirt by hand, you move from basic to intermediate sewer. An intermediate or advanced sewer will reap the same benefits of smaller, neater, quicker stitches as well!

·       As I compose this post on “Cyber Monday” I know how easy it is to acquire a ready-made shirt. Truth be told, you can order one for less money than this class costs!

Will that shirt be made of appropriate materials? (Probably not)

Fit you properly? (If you are lucky)

Give you the warm fuzzy inside feeling of being the most accurate you can be? (Definitely not!)

·       You will have not one, but two experienced historians, sewers, and nice people to help you along the way as you construct the most important garment an eighteenth century man wore!

Sign up to make your own shirt or a shirt for your favorite man.

Looking forward to working with you,

Vicky and Matt Brenckle

e-mail v_rebal@yahoo.com to sign up

(Also, please note that we will offer the option to make a woman’s habit shirt. A habit shirt is the undergarment a woman wore under her riding habit, it looks similar to a man’s shirt but is much shorter. If this option interests you then feel free to write to me.) 

Happy Thanksgiving from The Hive

In the 18th century there was no "Thanksgiving" as we know it today, you know, turkey, stuffing, football.....  Rather, "Days of Thanksgiving" were routinely declared.  And you have to love how they were sometimes, matter of factly, announced in the newspaper, like this example from 1766 -  Lt Governor proclaims a day of Thanksgiving, and by the way, a ship sprung a leak, the mackerel is plenty and there was a ship wreck and everyone died. A stark contrast to today's super-hyped holiday.

It would appear as things heated up between us and England that Days of Thanksgiving in the Colonies, took on a more focused and important purpose. Take a look at this one by John Hancock in 1774 who includes in thoughts that, "harmony and union to be restored between Great Britain and these colonies". 

In 1777,  progress during the war was cause for a Day of Thanksgiving

In 1783, a Day of Thanksgiving was proclaimed to be thankful for a "cessation of all hostilities"

So as we launch headlong into the craziness of the holiday season, why not take a minute to reflect on  how our 18th century forefathers and mothers viewed Thanksgiving and be thankful that they left us their words to study and to learn from.

Best wishes from all of us at the Hive and enjoy this Day of Thanksgiving!

Hive Workshops Fall 2011/Winter 2012

HIVE 2012 – Workshops – Minute Man National Historical Park Concord, MA

For questions contact: hiveworkshops@gmail.com

Breeches or Military Overalls: December 3 & 4, 2011 Sat/Sun

9:30am – 4 pm

The workshop will guide both beginners and experienced sewers through the process of measuring, cutting, constructing and finishing a pair of linen or woolen fall front breeches or military overalls. Students will have the option of bringing their own fabric, or purchasing a pre-cut linen or woolen breeches kit. Original garments will be available for study and inspiration.

Kit Prices: kits include pre-cut fabric pieces, thread, buttons for covering or metal buttons, thread, pattern, and instructions. Buckles are not included 

Wool Breeches kit - $120 

Linen Breeches Kit - $ 80

Fee:   $100 per person ("fitting models" may attend at no additional charge)

Instructor: Henry Cooke

To register:  hcooke4@verizon.net

Staymaking Workshop -- WORKSHOP FULL

January 7 & 8, 2012 Saturday/Sunday

9:30am -4pm

We will be making stays in the 18th century manner. We strongly encourage participants to sew the entire pair of stays by hand in order to produce stays that fit well, are easy to remodel in case of weight loss or gain, and can easily be repaired in the case of any broken boning.  However, if you are unable to do so, one can sew the channels by machine, with the rest done by hand.  As people have discovered in our other workshops, when constructing items in the 18th century way, hand sewing is easier and produces better results than machine sewing.  Besides, you can do it anywhere and it's very relaxing!

All materials for your stays will be supplied for the workshop, including linen canvas, thread (please advise if you are planning on sewing your channels by hand or machine), boning, leather binding and stay cord.  

All skill levels are welcome, stay making is not difficult, but it is time consuming. Some knowledge of hand sewing is helpful but not necessary. 

Fee: $150

Instructors: Hallie Larkin & Steph Smith

To register: stephzsmith@gmail.com

American Militia Cartridge Pouch

January 14, 2012

9:30 am - 4pm

You will construct a 19-hole cartridge pouch that would be appropriate for Seven Years War Provincial, Revolutionary War American militia, and pre-1779 Continental Army. The pouch will be complete with the wood block, black leather shoulder strap with brass buckle.

Fee: $75 includes materials -- Maximum Attendees: 6

Instructors: Roy Najecki & Joel Bohy

To register: roy@najecki.com

Making a Man’s Shirt

Saturday January 14 & Saturday February 11, 2012

9:30 am – 4 pm

A great beginner project in which to learn and practice your hand sewing but also a great way for more advanced sewers to create a thing of beauty! These two Saturday sessions will teach you the basics of constructing and sewing a man’s shirt. The classroom time will focus on learning the trickier details while you work on the easier things at home between classes. The second session will help you with the finishing touches like cuffs and sleeve buttons.

Fee: $100 (Fee does not include materials

Instructors: Matthew & Vicky Brenckle

Register: v_rebal@yahoo.com

Waistcoat as a Foundation Garment

January 14 & February 11, 2012

9:30 am -4pm

Ever notice how a well-fit waistcoat beautifully complements an 18^th century suit? Often overlooked because a coat covers it, the waistcoat is actually a man’s foundation garment. This two-day workshop will look at original waistcoats and explore the methods tailors used to create a good fit. By the end of day one, you will have drafted a pattern to create a superbly fit waistcoat, cut out your fabric and will leave with a homework assignment. The second session will be spent perfecting construction techniques and focusing on the finer elements.

Fee: $100 (Materials not included)

Instructor: Henry Cooke

Register: hcooke4@verizon.net

Stomacher Front English Gown - WORKSHOP FULL

February 18 & 19, 2012

9:30am-4pm

You will be constructing a hand sewn stomacher front/en fourreau back gown based on a period example and constructed in a period manner. This gown is correct style for women reenacting a period of 1760-1780. By the end of the weekend, your gown should be substantially completed. This class will require a one-hour individual fitting session scheduled prior to the class in order to focus class time on gown construction.

Fee: $130 includes the bodice and sleeve lining

Instructors: Hallie Larkin & Steph Smith

Register: stephzsmith@gmail.com

Constructing a Young Lad’s Kit  

February 18 & 19, 2012

9:30am -4pm

We often neglect our children’s clothing even though they are the real camera magnets and are oft times photographed in less than wonderful kits. Spend a weekend constructing a young lad’s outfit consisting of an unlined workman’s jacket and trousers or breeches. Learn how to build a little room for growth into the garment as well as some tricks to facilitate construction. Even if you don’t have a boy in the hobby, this is a wonderful opportunity to make up a kit or two in a couple sizes for your company stores so your regiment can easily outfit it’s younger members

Fee: $100

Instructor: Henry Cooke

Register: hcooke4@verizon.net

Fine Hand Sewing: Making a Shift

Saturday, March 10, 2012

9:30am – 4 pm

Is it time to upgrade your wardrobe with a new shift, historically accurate in every detail while honing your hand sewing skills at the same time? Enjoy a day of camaraderie and learning. Sharon Burnston, author of Fitting and Proper, will explain about the evolution of shifts during the 18^th century, and you will have an opportunity to examine an original F&I-era New England shift from Sharon's private collection. You will cut out and commence construction of your own shift using period sewing methods with the focus on developing your fine hand sewing skills. Fabric requirements and specifications will be sent to you on registration.

Fee: $50. Maximum class size: 12.

Instructor: Sharon Burnston

Register: millfarm@sprintmail.com

Making a Man’s Cocked Hat

January 15, 2012 9am - 12 & February 11, 2012 

9:30 m-4pm

The first session, will demonstrate the process of blocking your hat. During the second class, you will finish the hat blanks that have been blocked and stiffened. You will trim the brims to size, create and stitch in the linen lining, install an optional leather brow band, and stitch the worsted edge binding for British impression, steam/cock the hats, and attach the cockade for British. 

Fee: $100 Instructors, fee includes materials

Instructors: Roy Najecki & Joel Bohy

Register: roy@najecki.com

Leather Breeches Workshop

March 24 & 25, 2012

9:30am-4pm

Leather breeches were perhaps the most universal garment in the 18th century male wardrobe, from Royal Governors to slaves in the fields, these durable and comfortable breeches were the blue jeans of their time.  Join Jay Howlett and Jan Tilley from Williamsburg, VA for an intensive and very hands on exploration of the arts and mysteries of the breeches maker. Participants will receive all materials and notions to cut and fit a pair of buckskin breeches. 

This is an advanced level workshop requiring good hand sewing skills. Participation is limited to 8 to allow the individual attention requisite for proper cutting and fitting. Those sewing for someone other than themselves will need to have the wearer attend for parts of the workshop. 

Fee $400

Instructors: Jay Howlett & Jan Tilley

Register: rushonboys@yahoo.com

Trimming a Gown

March 10, 2012 - Saturday

9am-12pm

Learn how to use readily available materials, vintage trims and passementerie with which to embellish your gown.  We will examine what is appropriate for the gown you are wearing and how to achieve a period look.  You will also learn how to make fly fringe and how to enhance modern trims to approximate period ornamentation. Techniques like pinking, ruching, and adding cuffs and sleeve ruffles, will be discussed.

Fee: $40 includes trim samples

Instructors: Hallie Larkin & Steph Smith

Register: stephzsmith@gmail.com

Mitts 

March 10, 2012, Saturday

1pm-4pm

Create a pair of custom made silk or wool mitts based on a period pair from a private collection.

Fee: $40 includes materials

Instructors: Hallie Larkin & Steph Smith

Register: stephzsmith@gmail.com

Gun Tune-up

March 10 & 11, 2012

10am-12pm  or 2pm-4pm 

Get your musket in top working order for the season—a clean well-tuned gun is a safe one. Join gunsmith Jim Casco for a hands-on workshop where each participant will perform a detailed inspection of their musket. He/she will dismount the lock and barrel and completely disassemble the lock. This will enable the participant to learn proper maintenance and discover any problems. Jim will guide the participants, step by step, through the procedures and be able to evaluate any problems and make recommendations to correct them

Fee: $25

Instructor: Jim Casco

Register: caspar@vermontel.net