More Transitions, More Questions

As we discussed in our previous post, during the mid-1770's, fashion seems to be making a transition from the the dominant stomacher front style to other gown front configurations.

Looking at some more satires and fashion plates from the mid-seventies, we are noticing what appears to be the makings of the zone front gown.  All of these prints are courtesy of the Lewis Wapole Library.

This print above,  is a 1776 fashion plate.  The woman on the left wears a gown that has trim along the robing lines and a line of ruching down the center front of the stomacher section.

Another selection from 1776, a satire, shows what looks like an inverted stomacher (in modern lingo is what is often referred to as a "zone") with trimming on either side of the stomacher, and a line of ruching down the front similar to the previous print.

While we're making fun of fashion -- high hair and cork rumps in this case, here's a satire dated 1777, where both women are wearing gowns with ruching around the neck and down the side front openings. The front of the gown on the left bears a resemblance to the way the gown in the first print was trimmed.

Once again, a satire goofing on big hair,  her gown appears to be some sort of zone front also with trim around the neck and down the side openings like the previous examples.

Is this the genesis of the zone front style? And/or is this new look a transition to a center front closing gown? Another thing to ponder - since three of these prints are lampooning high fashion, is the artist specifically showing new gown styles as an integral part of the satire?  Let us know what you think.

Transition:18th Century Styles

When did it happen? When did the changes begin that brought the 18th century from sober and long standing styles, to new and evolving styles? We are really going to look closely at primary sources to try and determine when and how those changes took place.

Lewis Walpole Library

This print from the Lewis Walpole Library is dated 1775.  Notice that the woman's gown no longer sports robings on either side.  Also notice that it does not close center front, the opening is still there, but much narrower. 

Not a closed front gown, and not an open front either!  So the next logical step is to assume this is a transition from one style -stomacher and robings- to the next-center front closing gown.  Also note the stripes on the sleeves are up and down, not sideways.

Lewis Walpole Library 

  This print from 1775 shows us a woman at home wearing undress, having her corns cut!

 

This zoomed in view shows us she is wearing a jacket in the French style.  This excerpt from the Lady's Magazine, May 1775, gives us the clue as to what is going on.

"Nightgowns in the French jacket fashion, flying back and tying behind with large bunches of ribbon. Sashes round the waist, and fastened with a small buckle."

The term nightgowns is referencing English fitted gowns, telling us that now they flying back like a French jacket.  This jacket fits the description, it is not closed and appears loose to the body and has a sash around the waist.  Dovetailing perfectly to the description given in the Lady's Magazine.  Is this the transition to the "zone" gown?